About 3 Island
The first morning, I woke before sunrise to the smell of salt and diesel, the engine ticking softly as we drifted toward Padar. One of the crew handed me a thermos of sweet Javanese coffee without asking, knowing we’d all be up for the hike. On deck, the sky bled orange behind the jagged silhouette of the island. We were the only boat on the north side. By 6:15, we’d scrambled up the switchbacks, boots slipping on volcanic scree, and reached the ridge just as the sun hit the three crescent bays below. From up there, the ocean looked like shattered glass – turquoise, deep blue, and emerald meeting in sharp lines.
We spent the rest of that day moving like shadows between islands. After Padar, we anchored near Komodo Village, where we joined a ranger for the dragon walk. One massive male lizard sprawled across the trail, tongue flicking, unimpressed. Later, at Pink Beach, we snorkeled in water so warm it felt like bathwater, watching parrotfish chew on coral just below the surface. 3 Island’s guide pointed out a tiny octopus squeezing between rocks. At Manta Point, two mantas circled the boat for twenty minutes, their wings stirring the current. I jumped in with a life vest and floated, heart pounding, as one passed so close I saw the pattern of scars on its back.
The 3 Island wasn’t huge – just one cabin for the crew and shared spaces, but it never felt cramped. Fourteen of us spread out easily. The top deck had long cushioned benches under a canvas roof, perfect for napping between sites. At lunch, they served grilled mahi-mahi with sambal and papaya salad on banana leaves. No fancy plating, but everything tasted fresh. One night, we ate on Kanawa Island, plates balanced on our laps as the tide crept up the beach. The staff strung fairy lights between the chairs. It wasn’t luxurious, but it felt real.
On the final morning, we hit Taka Makassar. The current was mild, and the coral was thick – staghorn, brain, and plate formations carpeting the sand. I saw a pair of clownfish darting through an anemone, then later a green sea turtle gliding past like it had all the time in the world. Back on board, we changed on the rear platform, rinsing off in saltwater showers. The boat had two outdoor areas – one at the bow with floor cushions, another at the stern with fold-out seating over the water. We arrived in Labuan Bajo by 3 p.m., just as the market stalls were packing up. I didn’t feel wrecked from the sun or seasick – just full, in every sense.
